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Hi Everyone,

Well, its cold, its snowing, and I havent gotten over nearly freezing solid yesterday in the wood shop so I decided to stay inside and make something that weve needed for a while now:

A new toilet paper dispenser!

And not just any toilet paper dispenser-a handmade, genuine, one-of-a-kind toilet paper dispenser that you can only find here at SWW!

Im making this up as I go so Ill post this over the next several days.

Here is a photo of a wooden mounting bracket Im making. This is a piece of left over aspen from another project. Its about 13 inches long, 3 inches wide and about 1/2 thick. Ive decided to embelish it a bit. Here is a photo:


Now you can be conservative about this and just stain it or leave it plain but hey, if youre going to be sitting there you might as well have something interesting to look at...

Ive sprayed it with lacquer and Im letting it dry before the next step which is coloring it in with some markers.

Stay tuned!

VW

I have never purchased a subscription to a woodworking magazine. I typically like to pick and choose what I see on the newsstand to whatever tickles my fancy in a bi-monthly cycle. I did win a subscription to Fine Woodworking in a contest not to long ago and it has been showing up in my mailbox.

The most recent issue has a nice article about building a blanket chest by hand written by Andrew Hunter. Touted as a web extra is a video of the author forming his own gimmel or snipe hinges. These period hinges are difficult to come by and fairly expensive if you can find them, but for a lot of the medieval up to 17th century style pieces I like to build, they are whats called for.

A pair of proper gimmal hinges (snipe hinges). This picture was judiciously lifted from Peter Follansbees Blog Joiners Notes.

Ive tried to make a go of modifying cotter pins and Ive even had a black smith acquaintance from facebook lined up to forge some along with some nails and he never followed through. The video finally lit a fire under my ass to just go make my own. I wanted to be able to make more than snipe hinges, I wanted to forge nails and real hinges as well. To accomplish that I would need a little more than a propane flame in the open air.

Id heard about soup can forges before but I dived a little deeper and found THIS GREAT VIDEO on youTube. Go ahead and watch, Ill wait for you to come back.

Yesterday while running some other errands we stopped by a craft store and the home center for the supplies. All total, I spent in the neighborhood of twenty dollars to build my own version of the soup can forge.


 It went together pretty quickly, Id say about an hour of dinking around to get to finished. The toughest part was waiting a few hours for the mixture of plaster of paris and sand to dry enough to fire up the first burn.


It worked!


Of all the things I do have is an actual, full size anvil and some forging tools. More presents from my father In Law from my wifes familys past. This morning I went out to the shop and picked it up off the floor and hefted it up onto the hewing stump. Then started heating the metal and beating the metal into submission.


I have some ideas I think can improve on the forge I built. but this morning it was satisfying to pound out my own gimmel. Like any thing new it will take some time and practice to refine what Im producing. Im certainly not planning on becoming the next Peter Ross but being a little more independent and flexible in my hardware choices will be a welcome change to my shop.

Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf


P.S. See the Fine Woodworking video that started me on the path HERE.

So, Im sure that regular readers of this blog are familiar with my total lack of time reality. But just in case you might be thinking, "Hey, that Dan guy sure seems like hes on top of things time wise!"* I give you the following example.

My self established goal was to have 7 student created workbenches in our school shop by the end of 2010. How did I do? Well, not too good by that benchmark (err...sorry). Its June of 2011, school is out for summer, and we have one bench 99% finished, and 6 more somewhere around 50% finished.

Of course, in the big picture things are much, much better than that. We now have approximately 70 students who know how to measure, saw, glue, and plane. Theres more: they have also been introduced (watching only) to sharpening plane irons by hand; they can bore with bit and brace and hand drill; they know the difference between jointer, jack, smoother and scrub; they have experienced the joy of shavings; they have discovered the satisfaction of working with their own hands to make something beautiful, useful and real. And as a bonus, they can explain (and debunk) numerous theories on the infamous saw nib!

So who cares if my original goal was not met - it was entirely unrealistic in the first place. Its the process, not the product - the journey, not the destination.

Now lets take a look at that new bench:




The bench is 5 1/2 feet long and the two separate tops are each 12" wide, which with the tool tray makes the whole thing about 2 1/2 feet wide. The tops are about 28" from the floor. The slats on the shelf conceal about 120 lbs of cement pavers spanning between the "L" shaped stretchers; combined with the robust build of the bench, that makes these quite heavy.

I went with the split top with tray for a couple of reasons. First, although I dont like a tool tray for myself, I think with students, it will help protect tools from falling off the benches. Second, the tray down the center creates a boundary for each student and should keep bench space evenly divided. Of course, when needed, the tray can easily be spanned (or filled for that matter) to utilize the full width of the bench.

This bench also features an updated version of the hockey puck leveler feet. Ill post more details on this later, but heres a quick summary of the new, much simpler system. First, I bored holes in the bottom of the legs that were slightly deeper than the length of a 5/8" all thread connecting nut. The holes were sized to be slightly smaller than the nut, which was then hammered in for a tight fit. The adjustable part is a 5/8" carriage bolt which is the same length as the nut. The rounded head sits in a shallow hole bored into a hockey puck, with the square shank "nut" part still above the level of top of the puck. This allows for an open-ended wrench to slide in and turn the bolt for very easy vertical adjustment. No jam nut, no washers, no lifting of the bench and puck removal to hold the bolt from rotating... I wish I had thought of this years ago - just simple and effective.

All that remains to do (the 1%) is to plane the ends (they are just straight from the saw), have each student stamp their initials into each piece they cut, plug the bolt holes in the top, bore the holes for our Gramercy holdfasts, do a little more flattening, and make wooden faces for the vise jaws. That might seem like more than 1%, but youd be surprised how much work/time is already vested.

Oh, and the shop wasnt really that empty - were getting ready to move it down to the ground floor. Slab floor - no more bouncing! Yay! Exterior door - easy wood handling! Double Yay!

Im sure Ill get some shots of the new, new shop up early next fall. But wait, thats a time related goal, and you know how I am with those...

* I have no idea why you would ever be thinking such a thing, but lets just go with it...

So about a week ago I finally got moving on a new project - a knife holder. But then things changed. I started thinking about how my son has developed a real interest in the happenings up on the counters and how he likes to move the dining room chairs over so he can see, and grab, things off the counter. I decided that it would be better if the knives continued living in a drawer with a child lock. End of the new project.

So, it was time for a new, new project. And after resawing the stock for the knife holder, I was darn well going to use it. I settled on making a candle shelf. Using the dimensions of the stock, I designed a set of hanging shelves - well really a shelf/rack with two drawers underneath. Heres a shot of my plans:


The first step was to true one edge of the stock. I held it in the face vise and used a jointer to straighten the edge.


Then I marked the final width with my panel gauge riding on the trued edge - flipping it end for end to mark both sides.


There was less than 1/4 inch to remove, so I opted to plane it off rather than rip it with a saw. I started with a scrub plane for fast wood removal, and then finished up with the jointer. As I got close to the layout lines, the thin strips of wood started lifting up. If I was working square to the edge, they would have appeared on both arrises at the same time. As you can see in the photo below, only the near side was showing the curl, which meant I was high on the far side and needed to adjust my angle. This technique works a lot better than continuously bending down to look at the lines.


You can also see that I never really smoothed the resawn face of the stock. For the knife holder, this was unnecessary as the inside faces would not show. For the new project, the inside faces will show in the upper section, and I needed to spend some time smoothing those surfaces.

My design called for a curve on the upper half of each side. To lay out a true curve, I used a thin dowel. With one end clamped to the stock, I could flex the dowel until the curve was the right shape, and then trace it onto the stock.


After cutting the curve with my turning saw, I used a convex sole spokeshave to clean up the curve.


Instead of trying to replicate the same curve with the dowel for the second side, I just traced the first side. Heres the pair:


Next, Ill start to work on the joints: dovetails for the top and bottom, rabbets for the back, and dadoes for the shelf and drawer dividers. After that, Ill make the two small drawers.

Well, installation of the decking was begun and nearly completed the next day, but we were short a few pieces of decking, so more had to be ordered.
Work will start back again today with installation of the decking on the stairs, and hopefully some work on the railings.

The decking that was installed was been trimmed along the edge and caps were installed on all sides of the deck where the decking was already installed.  They got the stair treads installed today.

Waiting for the trim.

Putting trim around the edges.

Getting the caps on three edges was a bit tedious, but really trims out the planking nicely.

One section of rail and almost all the posts assembled.

Discovered that the directions for assembly the rails can be misleading, I think things have changed and the instructions have not.  Also, the same distance measurement in two different places reference off of different points and it is easy to miss.

Part 3